*Beams as of 710 can take up to 6-10 weeks to build* To follow the build of your beam, click here.
* Made and Designed in the USA * Built to order * Each front end is jig built to ensure straightness and longevity. The beams are MIG welded for strength and clean looks. Everything is assembled but the bushings so the beams can be powder coated, chromed or painted for the best fit and finish. To see how one is assembled after the finish has been applied, check out this article - Ultimate Beam Preparation .
If you plan on running disc brakes and drop spindles, a 3" Ultimate beam is what you need. If you have thoughts of going the air ride route in the future, go with the 4" and spend your money once. This will give you the clearance needed to allow the car to lay its lowest and not rub the fenders. Check out this article for specifics -
Some great info on how to lower your ride the right way
This is the most complete Lowering kit on the market. It comes with the following: One Ultimate Narrowed beam of your choice, pair of NEW torsion springs, tie rods with out ends, drop spindles, link pins, king pins, and lowered shocks front/rear
We will start with the basics. The heart of your front suspension is a front beam. This has torsion leaves in the front end that gives your front end its suspension. Your control arms are held in with grub screws that attach them to your torsion leaves. The control arms are connected to your spindles and then onto your brakes and wheels. Most stock height beetles come with 165r15 tires with stock wheels and sit under the fenders about 1.5" on each side. Depending on the fenders that are on the car, this measurement could be different. To better tell you how much room you have, check out .
When you decide to lower the front end and use drop spindles, the wheels will come out roughly about 3/8". Now that the car is lowered 2.5" with stock tires, your tires will run the fender edges. To compensate this, you would narrow the beam. This means you would be taking out XX amount of inches from the center of the beam. This will bring your wheels in and help with negating the amount of rubbing that will happen. With the Ultimate Narrowed Beam, we can come in several inches, but it all depends on where you want your wheel to sit in the fender well.
Some disc brakes add track width as well. So we always suggest creating a menu or plan by mocking up your suspension (at least on one side). Install your drop spindle, your rotor and your wheel. Find out how much of the wheel is sticking out and how far you would like the wheel to move in and times that number time 2. This will give you a figure like 2", 3", 4", 5" and so on.
The Ultimate Narrowed Beam is completely different from everyone else. We build these beams with 100% all brand new parts made in house and in the USA. No one else can say that. All parts are CNC laser cut, CNC bent, CNC Broached or CNC machined for the best fit and finish. Some companies use stock beams, narrow them, install adjusters and replace the bearing and bushing with poly urethane. This is old technology. Some companies skip steps to save time and money. We do not skip a thing. Our beams even come complete with zerk fittings and zinc hardware.
Competitor's Narrowed Beam Analysis
No body mods are required from 1-4 inches. If you would like to run shock towers and be narrower than 4" you will need to notch your inner fender wells to make it fit. For 4" Narrowed beams, the inside dimension is 29 13/16". That gives a clearance of 1/16" on each side. We can not guarantee the tower will not touch on your vehicle due to age, accidents or anything else. If you need one custom made, give us a call.
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